Mounting
a foil from it's components
Wether you have purchased a weapon as parts or you are
changing a broken blade all fencers should know how
to mount a weapon. For a list of the components of a
foil click on Parts in the menu on the left.
General Information:
When ordering a new blade you will need
to specify whether it is to have a crosse tang or a
french tang. The tang is the part of the blade that
runs inside the handle and is usually either threaded
or slotted. Mounting a weapon is far easier if you have
access to a vice but can be done without one. Tou will
need a point screwdriver if you are using a bayonet
style inside guard socket and a normal screwdriver if
the socket is two pin. A round file is also very usefull
and you will also need a suitable allan key if you are
fitting a pistol grip.
| If the blade has been rewired you
will need to replace the plastic insulation. This
is a 1mm diameter plastic tube that slides on over
the wire all the way to where it is glued to the
tang. You should ensure that you have enough spare
wire to cope with any mistakes, 10 cm should be
sufficient. |
 |
The first thing you need to do is bend the tang
so that when you come on guard the point of the
blade is aimed more centrally at your opponent.
This bend is called a "set" and most companies
ship blades with no set on them. To do this you
need to place the tang in the vice as shown above
and then pull gently but firmly on the forte of
the blade (the forte is the thick part of the blade
just in front of the tang. If the blade has been
manufactured properly the tang will have been heat
treated so that it bends relatively easily. A set
is put on a blade before mounting. This set is to
bring the tip of the blade to point more centrally
towards the target when you are standing on guard.
The set shown here is about average (between 7 and
9 degrees) Set is down to personal preference and
varies greatly between individuals. A heavy set
is bent more and a light set is straighter, in general
foilist that preferring flick hits usually have
a heavy set. |
 |
After setting the blade, lock it in a vice with the
tang vertical with the blade groove facing towards you.
Slide on the guard making sure the blade wire runs inside
the indent (as shown by the arrow). Then slide on the
inside-guard socket making sure the red blade wire is
inside the guard socket’s pentagonal hole (otherwise
the wire would be trapped between the guard and the
socket, and split). Then push the wire flat against
the guard so it runs directly away from the blade.
Install the pad with the red blade wire running between
the inside-guard socket and pad.
Now slide on the handle.
IMPORTANT!! THE SLOT AT THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE 2 PICTURES ABOVE IS WHERE THE RED BLADE WIRE MUST GO;
OTHERWISE THE WIRE WOULD BE TRAPPED BETWEEN THE GUARD
AND THE HANDLE AND WOULD BREAK. FOR FRENCH
GRIPS A SLOT MUST BE MADE BY USING A FILE.
After place the nut on the tang, tighten
it with an Allen key. For French grips, slide on the
handle, then place the brass inset on the tang, and
then tighten the pommel by hand.
Bend the foil pad out of the way so the wire and inside-guard
socket screw can be seen. Using the round file, gently
remove the white cotton that insulates the wire on the
end of the red blade wire.
Wrap the exposed copper wire underneath the screw, between
the plate and small washer, then tighten the small screw.
Remove the excess copper wire and tuck the red blade wire
under the guard pad. In the image, the wire comes from
the inside-guard socket and goes towards the outside of
the guard and then down and underneath the pad back to
the blade.
Push the pad back into place and check the tightness
of all the nuts, and check for the presence of 15 cm of
insulating tip tape.
Click here to see the video demonstration
performed by Fred Bankole Head of Dispatch at Leon Paul,
ex Nigerian international goal keeper and an armourer
for 14 years.
(click here to go to the
top of the page)
