Synopsis

Foil overview

Both men and women compete in foil, in separate events. The weapon used is a maximum of 500 grams, with a maximum length of 110cm. A micro-switch in the tip needs at least 500 grams of pressure to activate the registering apparatus. The valid target area is the torso only, excluding arms, legs and head. The valid target area on the fencer is covered by a metallic jacket (lame), which causes a coloured lamp to light when the target area is hit by the opponent's weapon. A hit on the non-valid area (not covered by the metallic jacket) causes a white lamp to light. Epee evolved from the sword, favored by duelists of the time. Training for sword fighting (for dueling or combat purposes) concentrated on thrusts to the torso, where hits would have the most lethal effect.

How a hit is made

The Foil circuit is normally ON, however the circuits have three possible states used by the apparatus to determine the scoring.

1. In the normal state the the blue (centre pin) and green (near pin) wires in the diagram on the right are connected in a single circuit through the apparatus. This state produces no light and would be the state of the circuit as the fencers come on guard.
2. When the point is depressed by any surface except the opponents lame, guard or a connected metallic floor (piste) the circuit is broken and the "off-target" light comes on.
3. When the point is depressed at the same time as the point is in contact with the opponents lame the original circuit is broken and a new circuit is made. This circuit is between the blue part of the diagram on the right and the red part of the opponents circuit. This new circuit causes a "hit" light to come on.

As well as being electrical, the system also has a mechanical component. That is, moving parts and electronics working in conjunction cause the lights to come on.

This means that both mecanical and electrical faults can cause the system to function incorrectly.

Most designs for foil points contain the same basic elements shown in the model on the below.
These parts are:

• The Point Tip which moves within the barrel
• The point insulator or sleeve which is sometimes built into the tip
• The barrel/base which screws onto the blade
• A contact within the barrel/base which is attached to the wire running down the blade. This must be insulated from the barrel/base
• Grub screws which hold the point within the barrel/base
• A spring to provide the required 500g resistance

Each manufacturer has their own design of tip which has its own relative strengths and weaknesses. The three main types of points are most commonly refered to as British, French and German, the diagrams on the below show the three designs of point. The British point has the thickest barrel wall and so does not need a tool to straighten deformed barrels.

Foil handle parts

Assembly

Wether you have purchased a weapon as parts or you are changing a broken blade all fencers should know how to mount a weapon. For a list of the components of a foil click on Parts in the menu on the left.

General Information:

When ordering a new blade you will need to specify whether it is to have a crosse tang or a french tang. The tang is the part of the blade that runs inside the handle and is usually either threaded or slotted. Mounting a weapon is far easier if you have access to a vice but can be done without one. Tou will need a point screwdriver if you are using a bayonet style inside guard socket and a normal screwdriver if the socket is two pin. A round file is also very usefull and you will also need a suitable allan key if you are fitting a pistol grip.

If the blade has been rewired you will need to replace the plastic insulation. This is a 1mm diameter plastic tube that slides on over the wire all the way to where it is glued to the tang. You should ensure that you have enough spare wire to cope with any mistakes, 10 cm should be sufficient. The first thing you need to do is bend the tang so that when you come on guard the point of the blade is aimed more centrally at your opponent. This bend is called a "set" and most companies ship blades with no set on them. To do this you need to place the tang in the vice as shown above and then pull gently but firmly on the forte of the blade (the forte is the thick part of the blade just in front of the tang.

If the blade has been manufactured properly the tang will have been heat treated so that it bends relatively easily. A set is put on a blade before mounting. This set is to bring the tip of the blade to point more centrally towards the target when you are standing on guard. The set shown here is about average (between 7 and 9 degrees) Set is down to personal preference and varies greatly between individuals. A heavy set is bent more and a light set is straighter, in general foilist that preferring flick hits usually have a heavy set. After setting the blade, lock it in a vice with the tang vertical with the blade groove facing towards you. Slide on the guard making sure the blade wire runs inside the indent (as shown by the arrow). Then slide on the inside-guard socket making sure the red blade wire is inside the guard socket's pentagonal hole (otherwise the wire would be trapped between the guard and the socket, and split). Then push the wire flat against the guard so it runs directly away from the blade. Install the pad with the red blade wire running between the inside-guard socket and pad. Now slide on the handle.

IMPORTANT!! THE SLOT AT THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE 2 PICTURES ABOVE IS WHERE THE RED BLADE WIRE MUST GO; OTHERWISE THE WIRE WOULD BE TRAPPED BETWEEN THE GUARD AND THE HANDLE AND WOULD BREAK. FOR FRENCH GRIPS A SLOT MUST BE MADE BY USING A FILE.

After place the nut on the tang, tighten it with an Allen key. For French grips, slide on the handle, then place the brass inset on the tang, and then tighten the pommel by hand. Bend the foil pad out of the way so the wire and inside-guard socket screw can be seen. Using the round file, gently remove the white cotton that insulates the wire on the end of the red blade wire. Wrap the exposed copper wire underneath the screw, between the plate and small washer, then tighten the small screw. Remove the excess copper wire and tuck the red blade wire under the guard pad. In the image, the wire comes from the inside-guard socket and goes towards the outside of the guard and then down and underneath the pad back to the blade. Push the pad back into place and check the tightness of all the nuts, and check for the presence of 15 cm of insulating tip tape.

Repair and rewire

Blade re-wire

Place the weapon upside-down in a vice, undo the hex nut and remove the handle, pad, guard socket and guard from the tang.
Rotate the blade 90 degrees in the vice and peel off the protecting tape around the tip. Dissassemble the point by removing the tip, grub screws, tension spring and point top. Put them on a small magnet, so that they don't fall on the floor.
If you have a hot-air paint stripper, this part is easy. Grasp the end of the wire in a pair of pliers and heating the blade gently, pull the wire out of the groove of the blade. Remove any remaining wire and glue from the blade with the help of a craft knife or some similar sharp instrument.(If a hot-air paintstripper is not handy, then you will have to use a broken hacksaw blade or a craft knife). You should then have a clean, rough surface along the whole length of the blade, ready for glueing.
Wrap masking tape around the blade tang (approximately 3" from the shoulder) to prevent damage to the insulation when tying off the wire during glueing.
Examine the base of the foil point and check that all of the plastic insulator is out. If not, it should be possible to push the nylon cup out from the base using a paperclip or small screwdriver.
Rotate the blade 90 degrees in the vice, with about 4cms showing above the jaws. Apply a locking resin (such as locnut, but not superglue!) to the thread to avoid the barrel loosening with use. Thread the blade wire into the barrel base, but do no insert the plastic cup into the foil barrel. Using pliers or an adjustable spanner. tighten the base onto the foil blade.
Pull the wire down gently towards the tang, making sure it is parallel to both sides of the barrel base to prevent the insulation being damaged as it passes through the narrow hole. When the wire has fully passed through and the nylon cup is against the top of the barrel base, hold the blade in a vice and push the cup firmly down into the bottom of the barrel base using a point setting applicator or screwdriver. When pushing the cup into the barrel base pull the wire gently to prevent the wire becoming trapped in the point.
Pull the wire straight down the groove and wrap around the tape covering the tang several times, passing the last turn under the tape so that the wire is kept taut in the groove ready for glueing.
Re-assemble the point. The weapon should now be checked for continuity and short circuits before contnuing by using an ohmmeter or test box. Glue the wire into the groove by the shoulder using a small amount of THIN super glue and allow to dry.
Undo the wire from the tang (the dab of super-glue will keep it in place), and using string or chain, bend the blade like a bow, this will ensure that the wire stays in the groove and that it will not break as easily on the first extreme lunge. Keeping the point uppermost, drip several drops of the super glue into the groove, taking care to completely cover the wire. Do not allow the glue to overflow beyond the wire onto the threaded tang.
Allow 20 minutes or so for the glue to set completely, keeping the blade point uppermost to prevent the glue from sticking the point together. When completely dry release the string and remove tape from tang and test electrically once more. Foil blades should then be taped for 15 cm from the tip with insulating tapes.

Invert the blade in a vice with the tang vertical with the blade groove facing towards you. Thread a piece of wire insulator onto the foil wire, ensuring that you have sufficient margin for errors(about 10cm should do).

Now thread the guard onto the tang, making sure the blade wire runs inside the indent. Then slide on the inside-guard socket making sure the insulated blade wire is inside the guard socket's hole (otherwise the wire would be trapped between the guard and the socket, and split). Then push the wire flat against the guard so it runs directly away from the blade.
Next replace the foil pad with the insulated blade wire running between the guard socket and pad. Now slide on the handle.

ENSURE THAT THE INSULATED BLADE WIRE PASSES THROUGH THE GROOVE IN THE HANDLE; OTHERWISE THE WIRE WOULD BE TRAPPED BETWEEN THE GUARD AND THE ALUMINIUM HANDLE AND WOULD BREAK. FOR FRENCH GRIPS A SLOT MUST BE MADE BY USING A ROUND FILE. After place the nut on the tang, tighten it with an Allen key. If the handle is loose because the tang is to short, try adding a split pin washer. For French grips, slide on the handle, then place the brass inset on the tang, and then tighten the pommel by hand. Lift the foil pad out of the way so the wire and inside guard socket screw can be seen. Using a match or lighter, burn off the white cotton and underlying insulation that covers the end of the blade wire. Wrap the exposed copper wire underneath the screw, between the plate and small washer, then tighten the small screw. Remove the excess copper wire and tuck the red blade wire under the guard pad. Push the pad back into place and check the tightness of all the nuts, and check for the presence of 15 cm of insulating tip tape.